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Trimming Custom Made Window Blinds Print E-mail
Written by ERSWeb   
Wednesday, 30 November 2005

Problem:  I recently purchased a set of Levolor blinds, only to find out that one of them is too large for the window. First, how can this happen and second what can I do about it?

Solution Difficulty:  Straight forward
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  Measuring for blinds can be a pain. Many places will send a contractor out to measure the windows. However if you're a do-it-yourselfer and measured them yourself you may have signed your rights away if the blind didn't fit. Typically the store won't take the item back, and you're out of luck if you want the manufacturer to modify the blind. In most cases the store will recommend you purchase a new blind. But hold on a minute, if your blind is very close to fitting why couldn't you trim it down? You can.

  Believe it or not, some window frames are not symmetrical. The measurement you originally took may have been at one edge of the window frame, but for some reason the other edge isn't exactly the same width. If you come out a little on the narrow side you should be OK, but if you happened to measure a little too wide you could be stuck with a ¼" - ½" overlap. To fix this problem you'll want to trim the blind down by taking half that overlap off each side. In other words if your ½" too wide you'll want to trim ¼" off either end. I don't recommend trimming more than this since you'll run into problems with the blind hardware.

  First you'll need to disassemble the blind. Then you have to cut the synthetic slats without tearing the edges. Last you'll also need to trim down the metal piece that holds the hardware at the top of the blind.

Blind slat layout Blind slat layout

  The Levolor blind we are modifying has three strings that run the length of the blind through small holes in each slat. The string is responsible for raising and lowering the blind. First you'll want to tie the cords that raise the blind into a loose knot. In order to remove the slats we will need to pop off the plastic caps on the bottom of the blind, untie the knot in each string and pull them out of every slat. You should now be able to slide each slat individually out of the three ladder-like hangers. Once you remove the slats you need to place them on a clean surface preferably protected with some cloth or old rags, which helps prevent scratches.

Cross section view of the slat Cross section view of the slat

  Next you will need to find a saw to cut the blinds with. We recommend using a table or radial arm saw, as you can easily create a stop or jig to ensure that each slat is cut exactly the same. You will need to reverse the saw blade, which will help prevent splitting on the edges of the plastic slats. If you notice rough edges you can lightly sand the ends of the slats to even them out.

Center hole alignment Center hole alignment

  The metal holder at the top of the blind is where the retraction mechanism and the tilt control reside. You will also need to slightly trim this metal piece, either with a hacksaw or a small grinding tool. If the metal rod inside is too long and protrudes from the end of the metal holder, you will need to trim it down as well. Then you can gently file down the edges of the metal. The stock metal end cap should fit in your modified holder if you didn't bend anything while cutting.

Blind hanger and other hardware Blind hanger and other hardware

  You are now ready to reinsert the slats. But first you will need to make note of the location and alignment of the middle hole. You may not have noticed, but the hole in the middle is not centered on the slat. If your not careful, the offset can create major headaches when you try to reassemble the blind. The best bet is to take two or three slats, tap them against the floor and see if all the holes line up. If they do not flip the slat that doesn't line up. Once you do this with all the slats make sure you place them back on the covered surface in the same direction.

Blind slat inserted
Blind slat inserted
Align hole for string
Align hole for string
Cross over string every third slat
Cross over string every third slat

  Once you've properly oriented the slats you can start sliding them back into your blind. You will want to align the holes for the most part, as it makes the next step easier. Once you have the slats inserted you'll need to thread the string back through the holes. I recommend starting with the middle hole so you'll know right away if you have any slats in backwards. Start on one side of the ladder and thread three slats. Now cross the string over to the other side of the ladder and thread three more slats. This alternating pattern helps tension the slats so they don't slide around.

Tie off string at bottom of blind Tie off string at bottom of blind

  When you reach the bottom you'll need to slide the string through the bottom piece of the blind and then tie it off with a strong knot. Once you've done this you may want to try to raise the blind slightly. Pull on the cord that leads to the middle string. If you tied off the pull strings in a knot you should be able to lightly tug on them and figure out which one has tension on it. Once you've raise the blind slightly you can take a good look at the end of your blind. If the edges aren't even then you may have an alignment problem. If you do let the blind down, untie the knot and rework the slats or string. If not, start stringing up both ends of the blind.

Blind compressed
Blind compressed
Plastic plugs inserted in bottom of blind Plastic plugs inserted in bottom of blind
Blind fully extended
Blind fully extended

  Once all of the strings are threaded and tied off you can try out your new, slightly less wide blind. Start off by putting a little tension on the blind. Next reattach the wand, or pull on the other set of cords to open and close the blind. Make sure it opens and closes easily. If it does not then you may have a problem with how the cords are threaded, or possible a foul up in the mechanism up top. When you are satisfied with the results, fully raise the blind and reinsert the plastic end caps.

  Your blind should now be ready for mounting. If by some chance the blind still doesn't fit snuggly in the mounting brackets, you may need to cut a notch out of the top of your bracket. Sometimes the hardware at the top of the blind interferes with the mounting bracket. Usually it will fit, however if your blind is large enough to require a center brace you may have problems making it fit. You'll need to be creative here. When your finished you'll want to untie the pull cords as they can present a choking hazard for small children, animals and clumsy relatives.

  We wish you the best of luck modifying your blind. Just remember to be patient and take it slow. If you've found this article helpful, please leave us some feedback.

This article contributed by ERSWeb
Read more by this author at http://ElectronicRealitySolutions.com

 
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